We stayed in Cuzco for three days. Spent some time wandering around the beautiful city and seeing the various plazas and markets. The first night there was a procession of a huge cross with Jesus which was escorted through the main area to one of the churches - start of Easter week.
The next day we took a bus tour through the Sacred Valley and stopped at many towns, markets and ruins. It was interesting learning about the Inca civilization and see some of the unfinished ruins (due to Spanish invasion). Some of the towns we visited were living museums as the Inca foundations remained and the colonial houses were built on top. One of the towns - Chinchero - is known as the weavers town and we saw a demonstration of how table runners and other various items are made out of alpacka wool. That was really interesting - the spinning, the natural dyes, the weaving.
The third day we did a mountain biking tour from up at Chinchero down to the Urubamba River. It was pretty intense! The terrain was called Andean Flat which really means undulating. The scenery was gorgeous. We had lunch at the Moray Ruins which was apparently used as an agriculture university for the Incas. From here, there was a lot of single track, rocky trails and tight switch backs down to the Salt Mines and more of the same to the river. There were three other people doing the ride with us and they were great fun - met them for dinner that night before we parted ways.
The next four days we hiked the Inca Trail! It was amazing and pretty tough and several Inca ruins along the way before we even reach Machu Picchu. We had 20 porters, 1 cook and 2 guides to get our gringo butts to Machu Picchu. The food was amazing and the guides were so knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Everyday the porters would run ahead with these heavy packs and set up the kitchen tent and dining tent for lunch and then again at the next camp site for dinner where they would also have our tents ready. There was usually soup followed by 5 or 6 dishes for the 13 of us hiking.
The first day was fairly easy, only some up hill. We hiked a few hours past the main camp site to a smaller, less noisy site which was nice. The second day was the most difficult. We hiked up a countless number of all Inca stairs through the Dead Womans Pass at 4200m then down to the high jungle elevation for lunch then back up to 4000 m through another pass and down again to our campsite - again past the main one which made the second day long but was really worth it for the rest of the hike. Because we worked so hard on the second day, the third day was much easier - shorter and mostly undulating terrain. We arrived at the last camp site in the afternoon with plently of time ot relax since we had to be up at 4 am the next morning! All groups compete for a spot in the line at the control point, which opens at 5:30. It is a 2 hour hike from here to the Sun Gate where you get the first view of Machu Picchu. Unfortunately we woke up to pouring rain and mist so we only got a glimpse from here. We kept hiking down to what our guide called the postcard picture view. When we got there still nothing! I was really disappointed....we waited 10 min here and slowly the clouds and mist began to clear and then sun came out and we had an amazing view of everything! From here we walked down to the entrance and our guide gave us a tour of the ruins. It really is everything it is cracked up to be and way better after doing the hike. By early afternoon there are so many people (many come in on buses who have stayed in the nearby town the previous night and then boat loads come from the train) so we leave and a few of us quickly went for a beer at the hotsprings before a quick lunch and then a train ride back to Cuzco.
This is probably my last entry as I sit here waiting in the Lima airport for my flight home. I may get ambitious and post some pictures but more likely I will post on facebook. Hope you have enjoyed the blog!
Monday, April 13, 2009
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Water Sports in the Galapagos
So I think I left off with the cruise ending. We spent the next two days doing six dives. Sina was getting here certification and I was doing my first real dives since I was certified last year. We took the boat out with four other people the first day and did two dives at North Seymor and one at Mosquera. I used my air pretty quick at 25 m but was getting better by the third dive that day. We swam with white tipped sharks, galapagos sharks, moray eels, garden eels, sea lions, turtles; saw lots of fish and star fish. The currents are pretty strong but the water was really warm. The second day we went to Daphne first then again to Mosquera and North Seymor. We were really hoping to see hammerhead sharks, but unfortunately, it was not to be....saw similar things....feeling more comfortable too after the 6th dive which is good. At least I can check off another thing on my ´´bucket list´´- swimming with sharks! Spent the late afternoon at the Charles Darwin Centre learning about the giant turtles for which the islands are named.
Today we rented surf boards again and went out on our own to Tortuga Bay. It was great! The waves were faster in the morning which is better for us since we don´t have to paddle as hard to catch the wave. We were doing well with the long boards. I am about ready to try my hand at a short board I think, well maybe....next time in California dad, hope you found one on craig´s list....In the afternoon the waves were a lot bigger but you really have to catch them when they break or you will miss them. We didn´t last as long with the big ones because they really take a toll on you just trying to get back out to where they break. We were very good with the sunscreen breaks and I am happy to report that Sina and I will be leaving with nice tans! Tonight we ate at this great seafood place that is along a really cool street that just has kiosks. The street is closed off and all the tables are there. Really unique and the fish with coconut sauce was amazing! Anyways, tonight we say goodbye to the Galapagos as we make are way to Peru tomorrow.
Today we rented surf boards again and went out on our own to Tortuga Bay. It was great! The waves were faster in the morning which is better for us since we don´t have to paddle as hard to catch the wave. We were doing well with the long boards. I am about ready to try my hand at a short board I think, well maybe....next time in California dad, hope you found one on craig´s list....In the afternoon the waves were a lot bigger but you really have to catch them when they break or you will miss them. We didn´t last as long with the big ones because they really take a toll on you just trying to get back out to where they break. We were very good with the sunscreen breaks and I am happy to report that Sina and I will be leaving with nice tans! Tonight we ate at this great seafood place that is along a really cool street that just has kiosks. The street is closed off and all the tables are there. Really unique and the fish with coconut sauce was amazing! Anyways, tonight we say goodbye to the Galapagos as we make are way to Peru tomorrow.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Ecuador
Arequipa was gorgeous though I was sick for a lot of it....stupid Bolivia bugs. Anyways, I did manage to see some gorgeous churches and monastaries that had some interesting history. The Place des Armes what my favorite part of the city and I ate there most meals.
A few days later I flew to Quito, Ecuador to meet my friend Sina. Unfortunately we couldn´t get a flight out to the Galapagos right away so we had a day to kill. We stayed in Old Town for one night, near the beautiful plaza. Hiked up a hill to this huge gothic monastary and climbed to the top of the tower, great mirador of the city. Saw a colonial art exhibit and went inside the most beautiful church in Ecuador which was covered in gold and had two famous paintings of hell and judgement day.
Yeah we get to the Galapagos! Spent the first day mostly touring around the little town Puerta Ayora on Santa Cruz and organizing the next 8 days. We went surfing at Tortuga Bay and both got horrible sun burns!! But wow the waves were so big....we did pretty well and were catching them on our own...not every time mind you, but it is so thrilling when you do catch it. The sand was white and felt like powder and had a few marine iguagnas wondering around.
The next day we started our cruise which took us to South Plaza, Santa Fe, Espanola, Floreana and a few other spots in between. We saw so much wildlife! I think it will be weird to be on a beach now where I am not laying next to sea lions! Also saw lots of marine and land iguanas, flamingos, penguins, birds - mating dance of blue footed boobies, paradise, alcatraz, hawks. I could not believe how close you could get....especially the birds, they really just did not care about your presence at all. Loved the sea lions - the pups especially are curious and like playing with you while you snorkel.
Did a lot of snorkeling at each spot and saw tonnes of tropical fish, star fish, rays, turtles, a huge shark, dolphins! Our boat was pretty nice and we got a great last minute deal. There were 11 of us on a 16 passenger boat so it was perfect and we had a guide with us the whole time. The food was great and the other passengers were entertaining.
A few other highlights were the lava tubes and post office bay where mail is delivered the ´´old fashion way´´....developed in 1792. Any postcards addressed to near you you take back and hand deliver or put a stamp on when you get back.
Anyways, that is a short overview of the cruise. We still have a few days left before we head to Peru so I will keep applying the sunscreen and hope this red turns to a nice brown by the time I get back!
A few days later I flew to Quito, Ecuador to meet my friend Sina. Unfortunately we couldn´t get a flight out to the Galapagos right away so we had a day to kill. We stayed in Old Town for one night, near the beautiful plaza. Hiked up a hill to this huge gothic monastary and climbed to the top of the tower, great mirador of the city. Saw a colonial art exhibit and went inside the most beautiful church in Ecuador which was covered in gold and had two famous paintings of hell and judgement day.
Yeah we get to the Galapagos! Spent the first day mostly touring around the little town Puerta Ayora on Santa Cruz and organizing the next 8 days. We went surfing at Tortuga Bay and both got horrible sun burns!! But wow the waves were so big....we did pretty well and were catching them on our own...not every time mind you, but it is so thrilling when you do catch it. The sand was white and felt like powder and had a few marine iguagnas wondering around.
The next day we started our cruise which took us to South Plaza, Santa Fe, Espanola, Floreana and a few other spots in between. We saw so much wildlife! I think it will be weird to be on a beach now where I am not laying next to sea lions! Also saw lots of marine and land iguanas, flamingos, penguins, birds - mating dance of blue footed boobies, paradise, alcatraz, hawks. I could not believe how close you could get....especially the birds, they really just did not care about your presence at all. Loved the sea lions - the pups especially are curious and like playing with you while you snorkel.
Did a lot of snorkeling at each spot and saw tonnes of tropical fish, star fish, rays, turtles, a huge shark, dolphins! Our boat was pretty nice and we got a great last minute deal. There were 11 of us on a 16 passenger boat so it was perfect and we had a guide with us the whole time. The food was great and the other passengers were entertaining.
A few other highlights were the lava tubes and post office bay where mail is delivered the ´´old fashion way´´....developed in 1792. Any postcards addressed to near you you take back and hand deliver or put a stamp on when you get back.
Anyways, that is a short overview of the cruise. We still have a few days left before we head to Peru so I will keep applying the sunscreen and hope this red turns to a nice brown by the time I get back!
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Amazon
Unfortunately we had to hang our La Paz the next day as our flight to Rurrenabaque kept getting delayed. The next morning it still wasn´t flying out due to the rain in the amazon basin...the runways there are dirt and fields so it gets too muddy to land. We decided to take a 20 hour bus instead - worst bus ride we have ever had! Anways, once we get there it is great. We have a day to wander around Rurre....really no cars, they all go around on dirt bikes and atv´s. The next day a small boat takes us up the Beni and Tuichi Rivers for several hours until we reach Chalalan in Midi National Park. It is a very clean, very nice ecolodge run by the village 3 hours upstream. We were only supposed to stay 3 days but we were having such a great time that we stayed an extra day. The days involved getting up early and going on hikes through the rain forest with our amazing guide who grew up in the village - we are talking hunting and gathering, huts, no electricity or running water and he is our age. Anyways, he was so knowledgable and would just stop and listen and could tell where we should go to find monkies and toucans etc. we saw 5 different kinds of monkies. Some are very noisy and easy to track since they play in the lower canopy. Others are quiet and lazy and we had to bushwack our way to find some. It was so hot and humid so after lunch we had siestas or went swimming in the lake - though that was not all that refreshing since the water must have been around 25 degrees. Later we went for another hike or took the canoe out - lots to spot around the edge of the lake. At night we would either hike and find tarantulas and cool coloured frogs and bats or we would go caman hunting! The food was amazing and the huts we stayed in were nice...though one night we had a bat trapped and it was so stressed it would fly into our headboards and fall....so glad we had nets on our beds! The howler monkey would wake us up at 6 am sharp with its LOUD howls. Pretty much had the place to ourselves too so it was really relaxing.
Anyways, we were able to fly out and catch a bus from La Paz to Copacabana Where we checked out Lake Titicaca and hiked around Isla del Sol for a day. Man, altitude hits you like a bus! Plus none of us were reacting so well to the Malerone. Still good though.
I left Ann and Liz in Copacabana and headed for Arequipa in Peru. Here I spend a few days before heading to meet my friend Sina in Quito.
Anyways, we were able to fly out and catch a bus from La Paz to Copacabana Where we checked out Lake Titicaca and hiked around Isla del Sol for a day. Man, altitude hits you like a bus! Plus none of us were reacting so well to the Malerone. Still good though.
I left Ann and Liz in Copacabana and headed for Arequipa in Peru. Here I spend a few days before heading to meet my friend Sina in Quito.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
One of the Best Days....
So Sucre was quite nice. Went up to the Mirador, saw some amazing churches. Went to Tarabuko which is outside Sucre as they have a huge market on Sundays - very scenic drive. Left Sucre for La Paz on an overnight bus.
La Paz is crazy! It is huge and located in this valley so one part of the city is at a very different elevation than the upper part. Have seen a lot of women in Bolivia wear the tradition etire - pleated skirts, lacey tops and shawls and top hats but here there are soooo many more. We did a walking tour, saw the witches market and black market the mirador. Basically all stores are on the side walks and you have to walk in the street and avoid the constantly honking vehicles and people trying to get you to buy everything from llama fetuses for good luck under your house to shoe laces.
The next day we took a mountain bike down ´´the worlds most dangerous road¨. (sorry mom i couldn´t tell you the whole story the other day on the phone - knew you would worry all day yesterday). The company was very good! The road is dirt most of the way, carved into the mountains and you drop about 3500 m in elevation from the top where you are going through the cloud forest and end up in the jungle, near coroico. We then stayed for a few hours at this animal rescue sanctuary and got to play with many a monkey...it was a great way to end the experience. Probably one of the best days so far!
Today we did a few museums including the coca museum which was very interesting. It explains a lot about why bolivia hates the states.
La Paz is crazy! It is huge and located in this valley so one part of the city is at a very different elevation than the upper part. Have seen a lot of women in Bolivia wear the tradition etire - pleated skirts, lacey tops and shawls and top hats but here there are soooo many more. We did a walking tour, saw the witches market and black market the mirador. Basically all stores are on the side walks and you have to walk in the street and avoid the constantly honking vehicles and people trying to get you to buy everything from llama fetuses for good luck under your house to shoe laces.
The next day we took a mountain bike down ´´the worlds most dangerous road¨. (sorry mom i couldn´t tell you the whole story the other day on the phone - knew you would worry all day yesterday). The company was very good! The road is dirt most of the way, carved into the mountains and you drop about 3500 m in elevation from the top where you are going through the cloud forest and end up in the jungle, near coroico. We then stayed for a few hours at this animal rescue sanctuary and got to play with many a monkey...it was a great way to end the experience. Probably one of the best days so far!
Today we did a few museums including the coca museum which was very interesting. It explains a lot about why bolivia hates the states.
Friday, March 6, 2009
Bolivia
So we did the 4 wheel drive tour into Bolivia! wow what an eye opener. so beautiful driving through the desert....all the lagoons and valcanoes and mountains. Stayed in little desert villages...usually no hot water, poverty stricken. Got food poisoning the second night which was terrible because the third day was the highlight where we went to the salt flats. I still forced myself to explore and take pictures.
Arrived in Uyuni and only stayed the night before heading to Potosi - mining town to the south. FYI if i ever complain about my job or my life just say Potosi. Did the mine tour and wow the standards here .....well there are no standards. Everyone works for himself (for pennies) so hours are long... conditions are horrible (small tunnel diameter, no ventilation in some areas, exposure to arsenic and silica among other things). And even with only my uni background in geotech for tunnels and rock structure, let me tell you, i was very uncomfortable with the whole thing. Anyways, it was a good experience...makes you count your blessings. Toured the historic mint which is now a museum then left this morning for Sucre which is the capital and the prettiest apparently. So far it is quite nice!
Arrived in Uyuni and only stayed the night before heading to Potosi - mining town to the south. FYI if i ever complain about my job or my life just say Potosi. Did the mine tour and wow the standards here .....well there are no standards. Everyone works for himself (for pennies) so hours are long... conditions are horrible (small tunnel diameter, no ventilation in some areas, exposure to arsenic and silica among other things). And even with only my uni background in geotech for tunnels and rock structure, let me tell you, i was very uncomfortable with the whole thing. Anyways, it was a good experience...makes you count your blessings. Toured the historic mint which is now a museum then left this morning for Sucre which is the capital and the prettiest apparently. So far it is quite nice!
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Desert
So where did I last finish.....Ah Pichelemu. Relaxed the next day then parted ways with the girls as they headed south and I headed north with Tomas and Nicholas. I left them in Santiago and took an overnight bus to La Serena. Caught a day bus to Pisco del Elqui. Wandered around till I saw a sign for ´rancho´and figured i could maybe go ridng to see the valley. 4 hours of riding through the mountians then into the valley through rivers and bamboo. Then through the pisco grape vineyards where we did tonnes of galloping! Ate lots of grapes and other yummy fruits called ´higo´. Then I toured the historic place where they make pisco and after stopped in at a place where we had this really sweet peach drink with barley and dried peaches. What a ride! Stayed a bit longer wandering around then went back to la serena and caught another overnight bus to calama (wow so dirty right now) but at least it was a ´cama´ bus (more comfy). Short bus from calama to san pedro where i was meeting dana, ann and liz.
Woke up at 4am the next morning and dana and i went to see the geysers (best at dawn....at 4300 m asl). Went into the hot springs and then to this town where we had llama meet bbq´ed. Got back around noon and had a farewell lunch for dana. Then ann and i went to the valle de la luna to watch the sun set over the dunes.
Today we took bikes to valle de muertre (death valley) and went sand boarding.....pretty difficult because you are constantly having to rewax the board. Still really fun though.
I may be out of contact for a while now because we head into bolivia tomorrow. We are doing a 4 wheel drive tour which will include the salt lakes and salt flats! so excited! Hope all is well with everyones!
Woke up at 4am the next morning and dana and i went to see the geysers (best at dawn....at 4300 m asl). Went into the hot springs and then to this town where we had llama meet bbq´ed. Got back around noon and had a farewell lunch for dana. Then ann and i went to the valle de la luna to watch the sun set over the dunes.
Today we took bikes to valle de muertre (death valley) and went sand boarding.....pretty difficult because you are constantly having to rewax the board. Still really fun though.
I may be out of contact for a while now because we head into bolivia tomorrow. We are doing a 4 wheel drive tour which will include the salt lakes and salt flats! so excited! Hope all is well with everyones!
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
I have arrived!
Wow, can´t believe I am down here! Not sure how to write a blog....but it will be fairly casual, so hopefully you can all follow my random thoughts thrown in!
I arrived in Santiago around noon on Feb 20, 2009. It then took 2 hours to just get out of the airport with all the taxes and lines and getting a bus to downtown.....really wish my spanish was better. Finally I get to the Happy House Hostel. What a cute, cozy place. I immediately meet two aussies girls (Julia and Lil) and we spend the afternoon chatting and drinking wine on the roof patio. Ed (from London) joins us for dinner where I try empanadas....yum. We have a bit too much pisco and wander through the park, picking up bottles of escuda (huge beer bottles - their normal beer bottle size is ridiculous! - wine size) and go back to the hostel. There we play pool in the bar room and chat with the hostel girl who is local and gives me all these pointers on where to go in Santiago the next day....she maps out a little walking tour for me!
The next day I start my tour....lots of cool buildings with great architecture. At Santa Lucia (medeival Spanish castle or sorts) I meet a chilean prof from the catholic uinversity. We were trying to learn eachothers language but then he started acting a little weird and I needed to get away from him....shame, oh well. By now it is 430 and I still haven´t had lunch and I had already wasted so much time chatting with this guy that my whole schedule was thrown off. I finally make it to the fish market where there is supposed to be amazing sea food. Had some great salmon and shrimp and was getting free pisco from this nice waiter who was telling me it was too late to go see the virgin mary statue (cerro santa lucia) on the top of this hill that looks out on santiago....too dangeros. I was a little dissappointed. Anyways, I told him a few of us were going salsa dancing and we did a little practicing in the restaurant haha. He said he would meet us with a few of his friends that night and would show us how. Yeah! I returned to the hostel where I met a new girl, Natalie, from London. Her and I and Ed went for sushi then Natalie and I continued to Bellavista area where we met Lil and Julia at Mastro Vida. Fransesco was also there and lets just say the night did not end up turing out so well.....he was a big jerk in the end with all of us and left us all quite against chilean guys.
Anyways, the next day I wanted to get out of Santiago.....the original plan was to head to Valpariso and Vina del Mar for a few days. I went to say my goodbyes to the aussies (Lil was heading home and Julia was heading south). Well my plans ended up changing and I came to Pichelimu with Julia. So glad I did! It is amazing here. Cute little surf town on the beach. Staying at the Surf Hostel (old lighthouse converted to hostel...ocean views, so nice). We went for seafood at this little restaurant right on the beach and stayed for this bonfire where we met some more travellers and locals. The next day we head to this beach punto de lobos....found it because a guy from santiago was staying at the same hostel. So much nicer than the main beach. Great time with the guys from santiago (thomas and nicolas), Julia and a girl from Canmore (Jess) and two dutch girls (liz and micha). Go back into town to check out the markets and get food for dinner. At the hostel, we play some card games and have some wine before heading out to a dance club...baracuda. What a great time! My faith is renewed in chilean guys....thomas and nicola were so great and acted as our protectors! I do have more stories about that night at the bar but I need to get going.
I arrived in Santiago around noon on Feb 20, 2009. It then took 2 hours to just get out of the airport with all the taxes and lines and getting a bus to downtown.....really wish my spanish was better. Finally I get to the Happy House Hostel. What a cute, cozy place. I immediately meet two aussies girls (Julia and Lil) and we spend the afternoon chatting and drinking wine on the roof patio. Ed (from London) joins us for dinner where I try empanadas....yum. We have a bit too much pisco and wander through the park, picking up bottles of escuda (huge beer bottles - their normal beer bottle size is ridiculous! - wine size) and go back to the hostel. There we play pool in the bar room and chat with the hostel girl who is local and gives me all these pointers on where to go in Santiago the next day....she maps out a little walking tour for me!
The next day I start my tour....lots of cool buildings with great architecture. At Santa Lucia (medeival Spanish castle or sorts) I meet a chilean prof from the catholic uinversity. We were trying to learn eachothers language but then he started acting a little weird and I needed to get away from him....shame, oh well. By now it is 430 and I still haven´t had lunch and I had already wasted so much time chatting with this guy that my whole schedule was thrown off. I finally make it to the fish market where there is supposed to be amazing sea food. Had some great salmon and shrimp and was getting free pisco from this nice waiter who was telling me it was too late to go see the virgin mary statue (cerro santa lucia) on the top of this hill that looks out on santiago....too dangeros. I was a little dissappointed. Anyways, I told him a few of us were going salsa dancing and we did a little practicing in the restaurant haha. He said he would meet us with a few of his friends that night and would show us how. Yeah! I returned to the hostel where I met a new girl, Natalie, from London. Her and I and Ed went for sushi then Natalie and I continued to Bellavista area where we met Lil and Julia at Mastro Vida. Fransesco was also there and lets just say the night did not end up turing out so well.....he was a big jerk in the end with all of us and left us all quite against chilean guys.
Anyways, the next day I wanted to get out of Santiago.....the original plan was to head to Valpariso and Vina del Mar for a few days. I went to say my goodbyes to the aussies (Lil was heading home and Julia was heading south). Well my plans ended up changing and I came to Pichelimu with Julia. So glad I did! It is amazing here. Cute little surf town on the beach. Staying at the Surf Hostel (old lighthouse converted to hostel...ocean views, so nice). We went for seafood at this little restaurant right on the beach and stayed for this bonfire where we met some more travellers and locals. The next day we head to this beach punto de lobos....found it because a guy from santiago was staying at the same hostel. So much nicer than the main beach. Great time with the guys from santiago (thomas and nicolas), Julia and a girl from Canmore (Jess) and two dutch girls (liz and micha). Go back into town to check out the markets and get food for dinner. At the hostel, we play some card games and have some wine before heading out to a dance club...baracuda. What a great time! My faith is renewed in chilean guys....thomas and nicola were so great and acted as our protectors! I do have more stories about that night at the bar but I need to get going.
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